Grip Media

In October 2019, Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean climbed the northeast couloir (1,500 m, M3/M4, 65°) of Chamlang (7,321 m, Nepal) to an altitude of 7,240 meters, using alpine style with a bivouac. The young French team had initially aimed for the north pillar of this mountain, a favorite among top climbers. Although they had to abandon their ascent of the northeast couloir, their climb was selected for the Piolets d'Or "big list."

Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean are continuing their ski touring projects. After exploring Nicolas Jean's stomping grounds – the Ubaye Valley – the two guides found themselves this time in Benjamin's backyard: the Écrins massif. From May 27th to 29th, they completed a rapid traverse of the massif from south to north, skiing down 10 steep slopes along the way. "An intense immersion, full of challenges, doubts, joys, and mysteries!" recounts Benjamin. This – yet another – traverse of the massif took them from the Gioberney chalet-hotel (Valgaudemar) to the Pied du Col (Haute-Romanche), traversing steep slopes over three days, "crossing some of the wildest landscapes in the Southern Alps." Three days during which they will have covered 11,000 meters of elevation gain and descended no less than 10 slopes rated in the 5, from the north face of the Sirac (5.4) to the north couloir of the Col Claire (5.1+).

The north face of Chamlang, nearly 2,000 meters high and culminating at 7,200 meters, is one of the last great unclimbed faces in the Himalayas. Benjamin Védrines, who had scouted the face during a previous ascent of Chamlang in 2019 with Nicolas Jean via the northeast couloir, decided to tackle it with Charles Dubouloz, a very strong mountaineer but a novice at high altitude. Snow slides, suspended bivouacs, pitches of mixed climbing and vertical ice… The gamble paid off for the Frenchmen, who opened a new route, "À l'ombre du mensonge" (1,600m, 5+, m5+, 90°), after four intense days on the north face—a magnificent first ascent of a coveted summit, as a duo, in alpine style.